40 National Parks and Still Traveling.......Part I
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| East Side of the Park |
May/June 2019
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| Lunch in Port Angeles |
On our way back down the mountain, the weather cleared a bit and we were treated to an amazing rainbow and its effects on the landscape.
The Rainbow
A day later, we returned to Hurricane Ridge Road, hoping to have a clearer view from the top. Although it was not perfect, the skies were clearer.
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| Double Tunnels to the top of Hurricane Ridge |
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| Looking toward the summit |
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| Obscured in the Clouds |
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| Blue skies |
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| Strait of Juan de Fuca looking toward Victoria, British Columbia |
We left the Evergreen SKP on May 20th for North Cascades National Park. To save time, mileage and to enjoy a boat ride, we took the ferry from Port Townsend to Whidbey Island where we connected to Rt. 20. Although it was, once again, a foggy day, Dave and I loved the ride. We arrived at North Cascades National Park in the early afternoon and checked into our campsite in the Newhalem Creek Campground. The entrance to the campground was quite unusual as you can see in the photos.
Newhalem Creek Campground Entrance
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| Stop Light |
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| Single Lane Road |
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| Our campsite Had a campfire every night! |
As stated on its website, "North Cascades National Park is in northern Washington State. It's a vast wilderness of conifer-clad mountains, glaciers and lakes. The North Cascades Highway passes viewpoints and leads to trails such as the steep Thunder Creek Trail. Boats dot Ross Lake. The remote community of Stehekin lies at the northern tip of deep Lake Chelan. The park shelters grizzly bears and gray wolves, plus more than 2000 bird species. It was established as a national park in 1968, and has long been known as the Alps of North America. Characterized by rugged beauty, this steep mountain range is filled with jagged peaks, deep valleys, cascading waterfalls, and glaciers."
On Tuesday, the 21st we continued to follow the scenic byway along Rt. 20 also known as the North Cascades Highway. We had traveled through a section of Rt. 20 on our way to the Park. According to the National Geographic's Guide to Highways and Byways; "The North Cascades Highway travels from the verdant pastureland of Washington's rainy west to the sagebrush ranching country of the eastern hills and valleys. In between, it weaves past the high peaks and dense forests of North Cascades National Park and surrounding national forest lands. From the Park the route travels east through the lower Skagit River Valley, eventually entering the town of Concrete, named for the material it produced from the 1930s to the 1950s. East of Concrete, the valley narrows as the mountains grow higher and begin to close in on the Skagit River. Continuing on Rt. 20 brings you to the turnoff for the Visitor Center. The small town of Newhalem, a little company town, was built by the Seattle City Light to house the workers who operate the three dams on the Skagit."
Town of Newhalem
"The first of these, Gorge Dam, plugs the river about 3 miles east of Newhalem. Just past it, a high bridge arches above slender, 242-foot Gorge Creek Falls. The highway continues to the Diablo Lake Overlook. Unfortunately, the overlook was closed due to construction. Had we been able to stop there, we would have seen the interpretive signs which "explain that the green-blue color of the water is the result of rock flour. These suspended particles of fine glacial sediments are washed down from the high country." The road continues for another 20 miles to the 4,860-foot Rainy Pass and then leads to Washington Pass. At 5,477 feet, it is the highest point on the highway. For the next 15 miles the road descends sharply between big mountains and big trees until it levels out in the Method Valley where dense forests give way to open ponderosa pine woodlands and ranch lands on the drier east side of the northern Cascades. The highway signs warning drivers to watch for horseback riders and cattle define the character of the valley."
Gorge Creek Falls
Drive along Washington Rt. 20
Washington Pass
The Spires
The drive ended in Winthrop, a re-created frontier town with Old West facades, wooden sidewalks, and the Shafer Museum which had exhibits on the turn-of-the 20th-century mining, logging, and farming in the area.
Just before Winthrop, Dave and I saw a sign at the entrance to a ranch we just couldn't resist.
Winthrop, Washington
Old West Facades
Wooden Sidewalks
Funky Signs
On Wednesday, we hiked the River Loop Trail along the Skagit river whose trailhead began in our campground.
River Loop Hike
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| Sap |
Skagit River
On Thursday we left North Cascades National Park and drove to Bellingham, Washington to have lunch with Bill Steinkamp and his wife Rosie. Dave worked with Bill at PVD. After a stop at Walmart to re-provision, we found their lovely home. We enjoyed our lunch together and caught up on what's been happening in each others' lives.
Our time together ended all too soon as we needed to continue our travels to Mount Rainier. We felt it was important to arrive a few days before Memorial Day in order to secure a campsite in the Park. After a 5 and 1/2 hour drive, we arrived at Mount Rainier National Park at 8:30 p.m. We drove about twelve miles into the park and continued to Cougar Rock Campground, one of the two campgrounds available. The campground was scheduled to open on Friday, the 24th, but we thought it might be possible to get in early. The entrance was blocked, however. After checking out the situation, Dave decided to park in the pull-out just before the entrance for the night. If someone came and told us to move, we would. Luckily, no-one bothered us during the night. We did not put out our slide and we slept (well, kind of slept) on the couches in the salon. We were up bright and early the next day, hoping to get into the campground by 7:00 or 8:00. While waiting, a few other RVs and vans lined up to get a site. The ranger did not open the campground until almost 10:30. Dave had already scoped out a great campsite and we quickly headed for it and set up. We paid fees and got situated.
In its park brochure, Mount Rainier is described as "a mountain of immeasurable inspiration and the center of the nation's fifth national park. At 14,440 feet, the mountain is the tallest volcano in the Cascade Mountain Range and the most glaciated park in the continental United States. Basalt columns and other remnants of the early eruptions and lava flows reveal Mount Rainier's ancient geologic history. Glaciers, massive rivers of ice up to 750 feet deep, flow down the rocky slopes. Yet, on the summit, steam escapes from deep within the mountain's core, a reminder that it is still an active volcano. Mount Rainier is surrounded by valleys, waterfalls, subalpine meadows, and 91,000 acres of old-growth forest. More than 25 glaciers descend the flanks of the volcano which is often shrouded in clouds that dump enormous amounts of rain and snow. Mount Rainier is a popular peak for climbing with some 10,000 attempts per year with approximately 50% making it to the summit."
We had entered Mount Rainier National Park via the Nisqually entrance on the southwest side of the park. As we passed through Longmire with its museum and the historic National Park Inn, and continued toward Cougar Rock campground, we immediately noticed the rocky Nisqually River bed to our right. It was very wide, with water flowing from the melting snow and glaciers.
After settling in on Friday, we took a ride to Paradise and the Henry M. Jackson Memorial
Visitor Center. The weather did not cooperate and clouds, fog, and rain enveloped the summit and our views. Our photo opportunities were not the best, but we continued to the Visitor Center, making note of the areas we would return to when the weather cleared. The architectural style of the Visitor Center was impressive. We checked out the exhibits, watched the documentary film, used the wifi, and of course, got our passport book stamped.
On Wednesday, June 5th, we left Apgar Campground at 6:00 am, and started toward Yellowstone National Park. We arrived at Canyon Campground in the Gallatin National Forest in the late afternoon, This USDA campground was about 12 miles from the entrance to the Park. We chose a site for the night and then went to Gardner right outside the entrance for dinner. After eating, we took a ride to the Mammoth Campground. We learned how to secure a site using the first come, first served process. We decided we would try to get a site the next day at the Norris Campground since it was more centrally located in this massive park.
According to the National Geographic Guide to National Parks, "Yellowstone, the world's first national park, was established before the states surrounding it; Wyoming, Idaho, and Montana, became part of the Union. It soon became a national icon. It is a rough rectangle measuring 50 by 60 miles draped across the Continental Divide. Seen from space, the park is a high plateau ringed by mountains. At its center lies the caldera, or collapsed crater, of a single super volcano. The Yellowstone River flows through from the south, filling the great expanse of Yellowstone Lake before plunging into colorful canyons. Geysers, hot springs, and mud pots, found throughout the park, are concentrated most densely along a small river, the firehouse."
On Thursday, we left Canyon Campground at 5:30 am in order to secure a site in the Norris Campground. As the sun rose, the mountains were bathed in gold on our drive into Gardner.
As we continued toward our campground, we quickly learned that we needed to share the road with the many bison.
As we continued along Rt. 89, we were treated to a rare photo shoot. We saw several vehicles stopped along the side of the road, including a van from a local TV station. Photographers were everywhere. Tripods, fancy lenses, and phone cameras were being used to capture two grizzlies who were hanging in the nearby field. Dave took some awesome photos of these fellows.
The Midway Geyser Basin follows the Firehole River. It only contains five pools, but each ranks among the best Yellowstone has to offer. As we approached the basin on the bridge, we immediately saw an orange-brown color. This was bacterial growth. It was quite a sight.
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| Lunch at the Steinkamps' |
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| Waiting in line for Cougar Rock to open |
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| Our Campsite |
We had entered Mount Rainier National Park via the Nisqually entrance on the southwest side of the park. As we passed through Longmire with its museum and the historic National Park Inn, and continued toward Cougar Rock campground, we immediately noticed the rocky Nisqually River bed to our right. It was very wide, with water flowing from the melting snow and glaciers.
Nisqually River
After settling in on Friday, we took a ride to Paradise and the Henry M. Jackson Memorial
Visitor Center. The weather did not cooperate and clouds, fog, and rain enveloped the summit and our views. Our photo opportunities were not the best, but we continued to the Visitor Center, making note of the areas we would return to when the weather cleared. The architectural style of the Visitor Center was impressive. We checked out the exhibits, watched the documentary film, used the wifi, and of course, got our passport book stamped.
Henry M. Jackson Memorial Visitor Center
The weather on Saturday did not improve, but we drove up the mountain, hoping for a better view of Mt. Rainier, stopping at Narada Falls along the way.
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| Still no sign of the summit |
Narada Falls
After viewing the Falls, we drove toward the park entrance on the southeast side. Traveling on Stevens Canyon Road, we passed Reflection Lakes which were still snow-covered, Louise Lake, and we eventually made our way past the Grove of Patriarchs Trail to the Stevens Canyon Entrance. We exited the park to check out the Ohanapecosh Campground. We were glad we had chosen Cougar Rock, as Ohanapecosh was full and the sites were very closely situated.
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| Ohanapecosh River |
On Sunday we were greeted once again to gray skies. By early afternoon, we decided to go to the Paradise Inn located near the Henry M. Jackson Visitor Center. As we started up the mountain, we saw the sun begin to peek out and we finally, got our first glimpse of the summit of Mount Rainier.
We enjoyed a glass of wine at the Paradise Inn, another attractive lodge, where we met Mike and Ann, a couple celebrating Ann's birthday. A pianist entertained us as we relaxed in the rustic inn. Our patience was finally rewarded when the summit appeared and Dave snapped some photos.
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| The sky is beginning to clear. |
Paradise Inn
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| Mike & Ann |
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| Dave & Gail |
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| The Paradise Inn Pianist |
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| It's coming! |
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| Wait for it! |
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| Finally, the SUMMIT! |
We spent a quiet Memorial Day, but we did take in Christine Falls in the early afternoon, before returning to our site where we actually roasted hot dogs over our campfire to celebrate the holiday. After all, no Memorial Day is complete without hot dogs and hamburgers!
Christine Falls
After visiting the Dump Station bright and early on Tuesday morning, we left Mount Rainier National Park and made our way towards Issaquah, WA. Dave and I are fans of Treehouse Masters on the Animal Planet channel. Tree House Point is located in Issaquah and we had tickets to tour the six tree houses there on Sunday. Our plan had been to stay at a BLM located nearby until our tour. However, when we arrived at the BLM, we were uncomfortable leaving "At Last, Too" there unattended for any extended period of time. We did unhook Cherry and took a ride to locate Tree House Point. We returned to the RV, hooked up Cherry, and headed back in the direction from which we had come. We stayed at the Dalles Campground located in the Mt. Baker-Snoqualamie National Forest. This campground was not too far from the southeast entrance to Mount Rainier.
View from our Campsite
We settled in and then took a ride to the small town of Naches in search of connectivity. No such luck. On Wednesday, we went back into Mount Rainier National Park where we hiked the Grove of Patriarchs Trail. We had seen this trail a few days earlier during one of our rides, but had simply driven by. The Grove of Patriarchs trail, which was a loop, went upstream through a stand of old, tall red cedars, massive Douglas firs, and hemlocks. The path led to a crossing of the Ohanapecosh River on a suspension bridge. The old-growth trees on this trail were quite large, some more than 25 ft. in circumference, with one approaching 50 ft. There are some trees on this trail that are over 1000 years old.
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| Ohanapecosh River |
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| Roots |
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| Tall Trees |
The Suspension Bridge
After finishing our hike, we drove through the Chinook Pass which goes through the Cascade Range. The scenery was breathtaking with amazing views. Because of its high elevation, Chinook Pass is usually closed from November to mid-May. We were lucky because the Pass had just recently opened.
Chinook Pass
On our way back to the campground, we took a drive up to the Crystal Mountain Resort, the largest ski resort in Washington State. During the summer, there are lots of activities at the resort, including a gondola ride to the summit of Crystal Mountain where you can enjoy a libation and/or a meal at the Summit House--the highest elevation restaurant in Washington State. Unfortunately for us, we were too early in the season and the gondola was not running.
We spent the rest of our time at the Dalles, relaxing and catching up on chores. We drove to the small town of Enumclaw to do some laundry and to go to the bank. We also located a Dump Station which we would need to use when we left on Saturday.
On Saturday, after "dumping" in Enumclaw, we made our way to the Snoqualamie Casino. The casino was located near Issaquah and it allowed free over-night parking for RVers. I took a quick ride into Issaquah to do some grocery shopping and to go to a CVS. It has not been very easy to locate CVS pharmacies since we hit the west coast. When I returned, Dave and I took a walk to the casino, but we were not impressed. We left the lot on Sunday morning and drove to a Park and Ride where we left the RV and took Cherry to Tree House Point for our tour.
Pete Nelson, a master treehouse builder, hosts Treehouse Masters, a series which shows Pete and his crew traveling the world, building tree houses. TreeHouse Point is located on a 4-acre lot with six tree houses that function as a Bed and Breakfast for the Nelsons. There is a river which winds around the lot. The tree houses are set up like tiny houses and some even have private composting toilets. Burl has a regular functioning toilet. The rest of the facilities are located in a spa-like bathhouse at the base of the trees. We thoroughly enjoyed our tour of the tree houses. Our tour guide, Maddie, was knowledgeable, enthusiastic, and just adorable.
TreeHouse Point
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| The Lodge |
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| Fireplace in the Lodge |
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| The Porch |
Temple of the Blue Moon
Trillium
Bonbibi
Upper Pond
Nest
Burl
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| A real toilet in Burl |
The Bath House
Maddie
We had a great time at "Tree House Pete's", but it was time to move on. Our plan was to stay at a Walmart overnight in Moses Lake. However, when we arrived, the temperature had skyrocketed. Knowing it would be an uncomfortable night without air conditioning, we had a quick bite to eat, Dave took a nap and then we continued toward Glacier National Park. We stopped at about 9:00 pm at another Walmart. This time in Spokane, WA. There were several other RVs in the lot as well. We were exhausted, but it had cooled down and we headed straight to bed. At about 10:30 pm, we were awakened by a pounding on our door. It was a very serious security guard telling us we had to leave. No overnight parking was allowed by ordinance of the city. We quickly put the RV in order and once again continued our travels. About an hour down the road, in Post Falls, ID, we pulled into another Walmart and settled in for the night without a problem.
We left the Walmart at 7:15 am and arrived at Glacier National Park in Montana around 2:00 pm. We stopped at the Visitor Center, got our map and visitor's guide and then went to the Apgar Campground to pick out a site.
Glacier National Park is a 1583-sq-mi wilderness area in Montana's Rocky Mountains, with glacier-carved peaks and valleys running to the Canadian border. It is crossed by the mountainous Going-to-the-Sun Road. There are more than 700 miles of hiking trails as well as opportunities to backpack, cycle and camp. Its diverse wildlife ranges from mountain goats to grizzly bears.
After settling in, we took a ride on the Going-to-the-Sun Road which was under construction and traffic was prohibited from driving across it to the east side of the Park. We were able to do some hiking, get some photos of Lake McDonald and McDonald Creek and also visit the McDonald Lake Lodge.
Lake McDonald
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| Damage from 2017 Fire |
McDonald Creek
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| Overlook |
The Hike
The Lodge at McDonald Lake
Glacier National Park Tour Bus
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The next day we decided to drive to St. Mary's Visitor Center on the east side of the Park. Due to the roadwork, we were not able to cut through the Park, so we had to drive around. We had planned to go to the Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada, but it was just too long a trip. We enjoyed the magnificent scenery, especially our view of Wild Goose Island where we had a picnic lunch.
The Drive to the East Side of Glacier National Park
Wild Goose Island
St. Mary's Visitor Center
On Wednesday, June 5th, we left Apgar Campground at 6:00 am, and started toward Yellowstone National Park. We arrived at Canyon Campground in the Gallatin National Forest in the late afternoon, This USDA campground was about 12 miles from the entrance to the Park. We chose a site for the night and then went to Gardner right outside the entrance for dinner. After eating, we took a ride to the Mammoth Campground. We learned how to secure a site using the first come, first served process. We decided we would try to get a site the next day at the Norris Campground since it was more centrally located in this massive park.
Gardner, WY
North Entrance to Yellowstone National Park
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| Roosevelt Arch |
On Thursday, we left Canyon Campground at 5:30 am in order to secure a site in the Norris Campground. As the sun rose, the mountains were bathed in gold on our drive into Gardner.
As we continued toward our campground, we quickly learned that we needed to share the road with the many bison.
Here come the bison!
As we continued along Rt. 89, we were treated to a rare photo shoot. We saw several vehicles stopped along the side of the road, including a van from a local TV station. Photographers were everywhere. Tripods, fancy lenses, and phone cameras were being used to capture two grizzlies who were hanging in the nearby field. Dave took some awesome photos of these fellows.
The Grizzlies
After seeing these bears, we also saw this sign.
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| Purchasing bear spray is highly recommended. We did not buy any! |
When we arrived at Norris Campground, we took our place in line. When the rangers arrived, we queued up in the order of our arrivals. By 9:30, we had been assigned a site. We set up our camp and were happy to see there were bison grazing in the fields near our site.
Norris Campground
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| Waiting in line |
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| Campsite in Norris |
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| Bison in the Field |
Later in the day, we drove to the Visitor Center where Old Faithful is located. Lucky for us, the most popular geyser in the Park, was just about to erupt.
Old Faithful
On our drive, we had noticed that by mid-afternoon, almost all of the venues were crowded and temperatures had risen. Since we had decided to do as much of the Grand Loop as possible, we knew it would be necessary to get out very early to beat the crowds. On Friday, we were up and dressed for hiking and ready to leave by 5:30 am. The weather was cold. Our first stop was the trail to the Artist Paint Pots. This is a group of over 50 springs, geysers, vents and mud pots. These exhibit varying shades of blue, grey and brown, and have a range of different textures.
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| Sunrise at Artist Paint Pots |
After viewing the paint pots, we traveled to Beryl Springs and Gibbon Falls. We also caught sight of the Caldera Rim.
Gibbon Falls
Beryl Springs
Caldera Rim
Our next stop was Terrace Spring. When we had driven by here yesterday, the boardwalks were so crowded, it looked as if you could barely move. Today there were only five or six other people here.
Terrace Springs
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| Dave on the Boardwalk |
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| SCAT! Does it belong to the elk, the bison or the bears! |
A drive along Fire Hole Canyon was next for us.
We also found the Fountain Paint Pots interesting. As we were headed there we encountered our bison friends once again.
The Three Amigos
Fountain Paint Pots
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The Midway Geyser Basin follows the Firehole River. It only contains five pools, but each ranks among the best Yellowstone has to offer. As we approached the basin on the bridge, we immediately saw an orange-brown color. This was bacterial growth. It was quite a sight.
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| Grand Prismatic Pool |
The Grand Prismatic Pool is the third largest hot spring in the world and the largest in the United States. Its center is bluer than the sky with its colors radiating outward as the water temperature fluctuates. It is considered to be a thermal rainbow. Unfortunately, the lack of sunshine and the steam in the air only allowed us to have a glimpse of the beautiful blue color.
Next on our sightseeing agenda was a visit to Kepler Cascades in the Fire Hole River. The cascades drop approximately 150 feet over multiple drops. The cascades flow rapidly through a rocky canyon just south of Old Faithful.
As we continued our drive, we soon found yourselves crossing the Continental Divide again. This time, however, our elevation was 8262 ft.
Next on our sightseeing agenda was a visit to Kepler Cascades in the Fire Hole River. The cascades drop approximately 150 feet over multiple drops. The cascades flow rapidly through a rocky canyon just south of Old Faithful.
As we continued our drive, we soon found yourselves crossing the Continental Divide again. This time, however, our elevation was 8262 ft.
As we made our way to the West Thumb Geyser Basin, we were able to see beautiful Yellowstone Lake.
The West Thumb Geyser Basin is unique in that it is on the edge of, and partially submerged by, Yellowstone Lake, creating a dramatic backdrop for the dynamic geysers, pools, and springs. We followed a dirt trail and a wooden boardwalk which looped through the basin.
Hayden Valley is centrally located in Yellowstone and is considered the place to go to see wildlife.
As we returned to our campsite after a long day of exploring, we were grateful we had gotten an early start. We observed heavy traffic in the opposite direction, but due to our early bird efforts, we had experienced a very enjoyable day.
We had a leisurely dinner and then called it a day. The weather had turned cold, so we turned up the heat and cuddled in for the night. When we woke in the morning, it was quite chilly. A quick look at the thermometer told us we had a reason to be cold. Here is what we saw.
We had had measurable snow during the night and it was still snowing. Our plan for the day was to continue to explore another section of the Grand Loop: Canyon Village and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River. We didn't let the snow stop us. After all, we're New Englanders. We bundled up and made our way toward Canyon Village. The drive was absolutely beautiful.
When we arrived in Canyon Village, the lodge was operating on generator power. The manager was doing his best to make everyone happy, providing complimentary coffee for all.
After enjoying our coffee, we explored the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River. According to the Visitors' Guide, "This canyon illustrates the park's complex geologic history in dramatic colors and shapes. The Upper and Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River add to the grandeur of this natural treasure. The canyon formed when hydrothermal activity altered and weakened the bedrock, making the stone softer. The Yellowstone River eroded the weakened rocks to deepen and widen the canyon. The 308-ft Lower Falls marks the point where the volcanic bedrock beneath the river changes from hard rock, resistant to erosion, to the hydrothermally altered rocks common downstream. The 109-ft Upper Falls marks a similar shift. The multi-hued layers of the canyon result from the hydrothermally altered rhyolite and sediments. The activity of the still-active hydrothermal features and that of the water, wind, and earthquakes, continue to sculpt the canyon today."
Due to the snow, the Roosevelt Tower Hill Rd was closed, so we decided to explore the Mammoth Hot Springs. By the time we headed towards Norris, the snow had stopped, the sun was shining, and the skies were blue.
After exploring the Terraces, we went to the Albright Visitor Center in the village. The elk actually own the village. We witnessed a park ranger telling a family who was having lunch at a picnic table that they needed to gather their things and leave because an elk was headed its way. She reminded them that the elk are the residents and we, the humans, are their guests. We also saw the same ranger direct people to cross the street to make way for the elk who were feeding on the leaves of the trees. It was quite interesting to watch the dynamics of all this happening.
It had been a long day and we were ready to return to Norris Campground. Because there was still some snow on the ground, the drive was quite pretty.
On Sunday, we were up bright and early determined to continue our progress on the Grand Loop. Today we were heading to the Northeast Entrance in hopes of being able to travel the Beartooth Highway. We took the road from Norris toward Canyon Village through the Dunraven Pass, past Tower Fall to Tower-Roosevelt and then through the Lamar Valley, to the Northeast Entrance. We traveled as far as Cooke City and then turned around because the Beartooth Highway was closed due to snowy road conditions.
As we got closer to Lamar Valley, we noticed much more open space with fewer trees and more grass. These conditions are good for many animals such as elk, bison, mule deer and pronghorn. Gray wolves are also prevalent in this area. Bears can also be spotted here. Grizzlies are more comfortable in open spaces, but black bears (which can also be blond, brown, or cinnamon in color) prefer a mix of woods and meadow. We were lucky enough to spot several animals along this route.
We stopped at the Roosevelt Lodge which was built in 1920. The lodge is rustic in nature with front porch rocking chairs. There is a large corral operation which offers horseback trail rides and stagecoach adventures. The Lodge also offers cabins for accommodations.
After leaving the lodge, we headed to the Northeast Entrance and drove through the town of Cooke City, MT, a small rural community. It is the 7th highest US city by altitude at 7608 feet. It is most famous for the road that connects Cooke City with Red Lodge. Called "the most scenic drive in America", the Beartooth Pass has dramatic switchbacks traversing the spectacular Beartooth Range, but of course, the road was closed due to snow and we didn't experience the thrill of driving on the pass.
Cooke City, MT
On our way back to Norris Campground, we stopped at Soda Butte Creek which is a 20-mile long tributary of the Lamar River. It is named for a now-extinct geyser near its mouth. Soda Butte is a striking hot spring cone about two and a half miles above the mouth of Soda Butte Creek.
The West Thumb Geyser Basin is unique in that it is on the edge of, and partially submerged by, Yellowstone Lake, creating a dramatic backdrop for the dynamic geysers, pools, and springs. We followed a dirt trail and a wooden boardwalk which looped through the basin.
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| Shoreline |
Hayden Valley is centrally located in Yellowstone and is considered the place to go to see wildlife.
As we returned to our campsite after a long day of exploring, we were grateful we had gotten an early start. We observed heavy traffic in the opposite direction, but due to our early bird efforts, we had experienced a very enjoyable day.
We had a leisurely dinner and then called it a day. The weather had turned cold, so we turned up the heat and cuddled in for the night. When we woke in the morning, it was quite chilly. A quick look at the thermometer told us we had a reason to be cold. Here is what we saw.
Saturday, June 8, 2019
We had had measurable snow during the night and it was still snowing. Our plan for the day was to continue to explore another section of the Grand Loop: Canyon Village and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River. We didn't let the snow stop us. After all, we're New Englanders. We bundled up and made our way toward Canyon Village. The drive was absolutely beautiful.
The Drive to Canyon Lodge
When we arrived in Canyon Village, the lodge was operating on generator power. The manager was doing his best to make everyone happy, providing complimentary coffee for all.
After enjoying our coffee, we explored the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River. According to the Visitors' Guide, "This canyon illustrates the park's complex geologic history in dramatic colors and shapes. The Upper and Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River add to the grandeur of this natural treasure. The canyon formed when hydrothermal activity altered and weakened the bedrock, making the stone softer. The Yellowstone River eroded the weakened rocks to deepen and widen the canyon. The 308-ft Lower Falls marks the point where the volcanic bedrock beneath the river changes from hard rock, resistant to erosion, to the hydrothermally altered rocks common downstream. The 109-ft Upper Falls marks a similar shift. The multi-hued layers of the canyon result from the hydrothermally altered rhyolite and sediments. The activity of the still-active hydrothermal features and that of the water, wind, and earthquakes, continue to sculpt the canyon today."
The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River
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| Lower Falls |
Grand View
Due to the snow, the Roosevelt Tower Hill Rd was closed, so we decided to explore the Mammoth Hot Springs. By the time we headed towards Norris, the snow had stopped, the sun was shining, and the skies were blue.
Drive to Mammoth Hot Springs
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| Blue Skies |
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| Bison grazing near our campground |
The Gallatin Range
Mammoth Hot Springs
Mammoth Hot Springs was very different from any of the other springs or geysers we had already visited. As we learned from the Visitors' Guide, "The Mammoth Hot Springs terraces are like living sculptures, shaped by the volume of water, the slope of the ground, and objects in the water's path. Travertine builds up rapidly here and causes the features to change quickly and constantly. Some vents will clog completely, new vents may form, and old vents may reopen. Sometimes the water is concentrated in a few springs while at other times it may spread across many outlets. In every case, water follows the path of least resistance, whether above ground or underground. Scientists estimate that, at any given time, only about 10% of the water in the Mammoth Hot Springs system is on the surface. The features are always changing, but the overall activity of the entire area and the volume of water discharge remain relatively constant. Here, as in few other places on earth, rock forms before your eyes."
After exploring the Terraces, we went to the Albright Visitor Center in the village. The elk actually own the village. We witnessed a park ranger telling a family who was having lunch at a picnic table that they needed to gather their things and leave because an elk was headed its way. She reminded them that the elk are the residents and we, the humans, are their guests. We also saw the same ranger direct people to cross the street to make way for the elk who were feeding on the leaves of the trees. It was quite interesting to watch the dynamics of all this happening.
Visitor Center in Mammoth Hot Springs
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| Fort in Mammoth Hot Springs |
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| Mammoth Hot Springs Village |
On Sunday, we were up bright and early determined to continue our progress on the Grand Loop. Today we were heading to the Northeast Entrance in hopes of being able to travel the Beartooth Highway. We took the road from Norris toward Canyon Village through the Dunraven Pass, past Tower Fall to Tower-Roosevelt and then through the Lamar Valley, to the Northeast Entrance. We traveled as far as Cooke City and then turned around because the Beartooth Highway was closed due to snowy road conditions.
Drive to Tower-Roosevelt
Still a lot of snow around!
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| This road was also closed. |
Interesting rocks and mountain side along the road
Lamar River
As we got closer to Lamar Valley, we noticed much more open space with fewer trees and more grass. These conditions are good for many animals such as elk, bison, mule deer and pronghorn. Gray wolves are also prevalent in this area. Bears can also be spotted here. Grizzlies are more comfortable in open spaces, but black bears (which can also be blond, brown, or cinnamon in color) prefer a mix of woods and meadow. We were lucky enough to spot several animals along this route.
Our Animal Sightings
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| Black Bear |
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| Pronghorn Known to be the fastest animal in North America |
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| Bison |
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| Herds of Bison |
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| Coyote |
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| Osprey |
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| The Hearth |
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| The Dining Room |
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| Notice the supporting columns still have the bark on them. |
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| The Porch |
Cooke City, MT
On our way back to Norris Campground, we stopped at Soda Butte Creek which is a 20-mile long tributary of the Lamar River. It is named for a now-extinct geyser near its mouth. Soda Butte is a striking hot spring cone about two and a half miles above the mouth of Soda Butte Creek.
Soda Butte
After another very long day, we returned to our campsite. We were leaving in the morning so we spent some time cleaning up and organizing for our departure. Although we did not complete the Grand Loop, we did do over 75% of it and we had an awesome time exploring Yellowstone National Park.
June 10, 2019
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| Final Sunrise at Norris Campground Yellowstone National Park |
This post is becoming quite long and I still have several other national parks to blog about. Therefore, I am going to post this now as Part I, and I will complete Part II as soon as I can. Happy reading!
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