40 National Parks and Still Traveling.....Part II
Monday, June 10, 2019
We left Norris Campground in Yellowstone National Park at 6:00 am. Once again we wanted to be sure we would be able to find an available campsite. The two parks are closely situated. By following the John D. Rockefeller Memorial Parkway, we arrived in Grand Teton National Park in about an hour and a half. As soon as we saw Jackson Lake, we knew we were in for a treat. Its landscape was striking; the sun was shining, the mountains were snow-covered with low-hanging clouds and the lake and the sky were beautiful shades of blue.
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| Grand Teton--Looking across Jackson Lake |
According to the National Geographic National Parks book; "Grand Teton National Park is named for a single mountain, the Grand Teton, 13,770 feet high and the central summit of the Teton Range. It forms, with its immediate neighbors to the south, a sort of alpine triumvirate, the Three Tetons. These mountains and others in the range can be seen from miles away, in all directions. Beyond its spectacular scenery, the Tetons possess everything a mountain landscape should have. Abundant wildlife includes moose, elk, bison, deer, antelope, bighorn sheep, grizzly and black bears, beavers, otters, eagles, and osprey. Vegetation varies with altitude. Sagebrush and cottonwoods thrive on the valley floor. Spruce, pine, and aspen trees climb the mountain slopes. Alpine meadows strewn with wildflowers occupy the heights. Waterfalls, glacial lakes, a dozen glaciers, and numerous mountain creeks complete the scene."
After admiring the scenery, we went to Signal Mountain campground where we successfully secured a great campsite for three nights. The early bird does catch the worm.
This was a great location. There was a bit of everything. It was situated on the shores of Jackson Lake with views across the lake towards Mount Moran. In addition to camping, there was a lodge, a grill, a restaurant and a convenience store. There was also a laundromat.
After settling in, we took a ride to the summit of Signal Mountain. The road is closed during the winter months and RVs and trailers are prohibited. The Signal Mountain Road is a five-mile, 1000-foot climb of switchbacks to an observation area at the top of the mountain. It provides views of the Tetons' towering peaks, the flat glacial plains below, Jackson Lake and the Snake River.
Views from Signal Mountain
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| Medallion on top of Signal Mountain |
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| Signal (cell tower) on top of Signal Mountain? |
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| Jackson Lake Dam |
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| Fishing at the Dam |
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| At the Dam....looking across the Lake |
Tuesday morning we were up bright and early because we had booked a cruise. We really weren't sure what to expect, but we needed to arrive at the Colter Bay Village Marina by 7:00 am. The cruise was the Jackson Lake Scenic Breakfast Cruise. It proved to be one of the most memorable things we have done since we started our National Parks' tour. There were two boats which departed from the marina with about 40 people on board. In addition to the breathtaking views, our first mate informed us of the history, geology, wildlife and the flora and fauna of the area. About an hour after our departure, we arrived at Elk Island. Dave and I had been expecting a bagel and coffee as our breakfast, but we soon realized there was much, much more. As we walked to the "dining" area, the scene was idyllic. Blue and white table cloths fluttered in the wind on the picnic tables. In the background the snow capped Grand Tetons reflected in Jackson Lake. We were greeted by Brandon, our host, who immediately offered us cowboy coffee...very good and very authentic. Breakfast was served buffet style and consisted of scrambled eggs, trout, cowboy potatoes, pancakes, bacon, sausage, fresh fruit, yogurt, pastries, muffins, coffee or cowboy coffee, tea, juice, water and hot chocolate....a veritable feast. After breakfast, we had time to "hike" to the ridge of Elk Island where we were afforded some fantastic vistas as well as the opportunity to see a mother fox with her two babies. The return trip was just as good as our ride to Elk Island. As I said, this was definitely one of the highlights of our trip to date.
Jackson Lake Breakfast Cruise to Elk Island
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| Skillet Glacier |
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| Tweekinot-the other boat... Ours was Rendez-vous! |
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| The table settings |
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| What a View! |
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| Cowboy Coffee...made and served by our host Brandon |
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| Lining up for breakfast |
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| Fresh fruit and yogurt served in a canoe |
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| Enjoying the meal |
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| What about me? |
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| We were really there! Our Views from the Ridge! |
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| Our transportation back to the marina |
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| Almost to the top! |
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| Mom and the kids Hope Dad got breakfast for us! |
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| Captain Ron and First Mate Christie |
Jackson Lake Lodge
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During our stay in the Grand Tetons, we also took a ride to Jackson Hole, WY. It sits at an elevation of 6237 ft. and is the home to three ski areas. The town square features arches made of shed antlers from the nearby Elk Refuge. It is a convenient location from which to take day trips to either Yellowstone or Grand Teton National Parks.
Jackson Hole, WY
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| Entrance to the square |
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| Gateway to the two National Parks |
Other activities while we were here included a ride to the Jenny Lake Visitor Center. We had heard that this lake was awesome and the hikes in the area were excellent. However, the parking lot and surrounding areas were under construction, parking was at a premium and it was later in the day and beginning to get very hot. So....I jumped out of the car, grabbed my passport book, and headed to the Visitor Center to get my stamp while Dave waited in the car. Mission accomplished! It was time to move on. We also took a ride to the Snake River Overlook. This is the location from which Ansel Adams took his iconic photo of the Snake River and the Teton Range.
Site made famous by Anselm Adams
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| Rafters on the Snake River |
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| Still in the clouds |
Great Basin National Park
With the Grand Tetons behind us we left for Great Basin National Park in Nevada on Thursday, the 13th. Dave's camera had not been functioning properly, so we made a stop in Salt Lake City for repairs. Luckily, the camera store, Forster's, had the part in stock. We were delayed by a couple of hours, but the camera was fixed and we continued on our way!
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| Camera Shop in Salt Lake City, UT |
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| Views on the drive through Salt Lake City |
Although we left very early, with the delay for the camera repair, we did not arrive in the Great Basin area until after 8:00 pm. This was one time that the early bird did not get the worm. After riding through all the campgrounds, we soon figured out there was not an available site. We returned to the small town of Baker where we took a site at a private RV Park, Lounge, Hotel, Lodge, Bar....all the above.
Not the fanciest place we've ever stayed! And $3 above our $30/night budget!
We were up bright and early as we planned to head back into the park to see if any sites had become available. I was going to drive Cherry rather than hook her up to be towed. When I went out to get in the car, what a surprise! Her front right tire was flat!!! Dave changed it, but since we only had a donut-type spare, we had to find a place to have her tired repaired. First, however, we decided to see if we could get a sight in one of the two available campgrounds. We eventually decided on an ADA site in the Lower Lehman Campground. I guess there is an advantage to having bad knees.
After settling in, we went to the Visitor Center where we learned we would have to drive to Ely, NV in order to get the tire repaired...a 120-mile round trip. It was, actually, a very pretty drive. We found the repair shop, not the nicest place in town, but our mission was accomplished. The tire was repaired and we had a late lunch at La Fiesta, a very good Mexican restaurant in town.
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| Oops! Cherry has a boo boo! Thank God for Dave. |
The Drive to Ely, NV
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| Waiting for Cherry's Patch |
The Travel Nevada website touts Great Basin as a natural treasure. "It has spectacular alpine lakes, limestone caverns, a small glacier, the oldest living trees on earth and some of the darkest skies in the lower 48. Along with all of those attributes, this park boasts a feature that's hard to come by: no crowds. Great Basin is one of the least visited National Parks. Although, it was not our favorite park, Great Basin does have something to offer, especially if you are a hiker. It is dominated by Wheeler Peak at more than 13,000 feet high and it is known for Lehman Caves which is a single multi-chambered cavern turned into a masterpiece of nature when Ice Age water containing carbonic acid from decaying vegetation percolated down fractures in the limestone, depositing calcite crystals to decorate the subterranean cavities. In this "living cave", stalactites continue to grow--about an inch every hundred years."
On Saturday, Dave and I took the Grand Palace Tour in the Lehman Caves. We toured the Lodge Room, the Gothic Palace, the Music Room, and the Inscription Room. It was in this room where early visitors burned their names into rocks with candles. The cave's most photographed feature, the Parachute Shield is also in the Inscription Room. It was an interesting tour, but we noticed that before it was protected, much damage had been done inside the cave. The ranger told us that, originally, visitors were told "If you can break it, you can take it."
Lehman Caves
We also took the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. It is a true mountain road which rises 4000 feet in 12 miles. The scenic drive hugs the mountains of the south Snake Range. Along the way, you can see sagebrush, jupiter forests, mountain mahogany, manzanita, and subalpine forests.
Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive
Zion National Park
June 15 & 16, 2019
We decided to leave a day early to head for Zion National Park. We left Great Basin at 2:00 pm Saturday and arrived at a BLM near Zion National Park at around 7:00 pm. We settled in for the night. On Sunday, Father's Day, we packed a lunch and headed into the park.
According to the National Geographic Guide to National Parks, "Zion National Park is a southwest Utah nature preserve distinguished by Zion Canyon's steep red cliffs. Zion Canyon Scenic Drive cuts through its main section, leading to forest trails along the Virgin River. The river flows to the Emerald Pools, which have waterfalls and a hanging garden. Also along the river, partly through deep chasms, is the Zion Narrows wading hike."
We arrived at the park early, and went to the Watchman Campground. Although the campground was full, the ranger informed us that we would be allowed to use their dump station, free of charge, if we needed. We found a parking spot (not an easy feat) at the Visitors Center and then made our way to the shuttle bus. The Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, a 6.6-mile drive, was like the one in the Grand Canyon where you could debark and then embark at the stop you wanted.
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| Zion Campsite-BLM |
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| Stream by Campsite |
We rode the shuttle to the road's end, the Temple of Sinawava stop, and got out to do the Riverside Walk. The 2-mile walk afforded great views of the Virgin River with wonderfully lush hanging gardens and trees surrounded by tall weeping walls. This trail leads to the Narrows, one of the park's most popular attractions. Navigating the Narrows requires water-friendly shoes as you must actually walk on the algae-covered bottom of the river which is often knee-deep. At some spots along the way, the sheer 1000-foot walls on either side of the river narrow to just 20 feet across the water. Unfortunately, the danger of flash flooding had closed this section of Zion so we were not able to continue once we reached the end of the Riverside Walk.
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| Zion National Park Visitor Center |
Riverside Walk
After our Riverside Walk, we hopped back on the shuttle and got off at Stop 6, The Grotto. This hike followed a mile trail to the Zion Lodge. We relaxed a bit and then boarded the shuttle for the museum stop where we watched the documentary film and had our passport stamped.
Grotto Trail
After visiting the museum, we returned to the Visitor Center, found an empty picnic table and had a nice lunch. We were very glad that we had arrived early to do our hiking as the shuttle lines were now very long and there was not a parking space to be found in the lots.
After lunch, we took the Kolob Terrace Road, a steep 20-mile scenic drive. It started in the town of Virgin and climbed north from the desert washes into the aspen-covered plateau of the higher elevations of the park until it reached the Kolob Reservoir. The Terrace rises to over 8000 feet in elevation and is steep and windy. The road began very close to our BLM campsite and because it is located outside Zion National Park (although it is a part of the park), the crowds did not exist. As a matter of fact, we saw very few other cars during our drive. We were glad we made the effort to experience the drive.
Kolob Terrace Scenic Drive
Kolob Reservoir
The Tunnel
We left Zion on Monday, the 16th and made our way toward Bryce National Park via the Zion-Carmel Tunnel. This tunnel connects Zion Canyon to the east side of the park. "It was built in the 1920s when large vehicles were less common. Vehicles 11'4" tall or taller, or 7'10" wide or wider, require one-lane traffic control through the tunnel. Large vehicles cannot travel in a single lane through the tunnel. Nearly all RVs, trailers, fifth-wheels, dual-wheeled trucks, campers, and boats require traffic control. Visitors requiring traffic control through the tunnel must pay a $15 fee per vehicle in addition to the entrance fee. The fee is paid at the park entrance station and is valid for two trips through the tunnel for the same vehicle during a seven-day period. Rangers stop the oncoming traffic so you can drive down the center of the road in the tunnel." We really enjoyed passing through this tunnel.
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| Guard House |
The tunnel was 1.1-miles long. Here is a video of the last 11 seconds. You can see that Dave is driving right down the middle of the road.
After passing through the tunnel, we continued along the Zion-Carmel Highway toward Bryce National Park. The incredible scenery was enhanced by the road's series of switchbacks.
Zion-Carmel Highway
Bryce National Park
June 17 & 18, 2019
When we arrived at Bryce, we checked out another BLM site, but decided to try to secure a site in the Park and we were successful!
"Bryce Canyon National Park is a sprawling reserve in southern Utah that is known for crimson-colored hoodoos, which are spire-shaped rock formations. The park's main road leads past the expansive Bryce Amphitheater, a hoodoo-filled depression lying below the Rim Trail hiking path. The hoodoos were formed by frost weathering and stream erosion of the river and lake bed sedimentary rocks. The red, orange, and white colors of the rocks provide spectacular views for park visitors."
We read the best way to see the park was to take the 18-mile scenic drive which encompasses the entire length of the main road. Twice daily, the free shuttle offers a guided tour. This Rainbow Tour requires reservations, so Dave and I made them for the 9:00 am tour on Tuesday. The bus picked us up at the Visitor Center and as soon as we met Randy, our driver and tour guide extraordinaire, we knew we were in for a treat.
Bryce Amphitheater
Hoodoos
Rainbow Bus Tour
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| Randy, driver and tour guide |
Randy was knowledgeable and entertaining. It was obvious he loved his job. We began our tour at the southern end of the park at Rainbow Point, the highest elevation in the Park at 9100 feet. Our first overlook was Yovimpa Point. From this point we were able to see the sequence of rock layers called the Grand Staircase. The staircases are named for the dominant color of the rock; for example, Pink Cliffs, White Cliffs, Grey Cliffs, etc. The tree-covered hills of the Kaibab Plateau could be seen in the distance and on a clear day it would have been possible to see the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.
Rainbow and Yovimpa Points
Hunter and Rabbit (Bart Simpson)
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| The Hunter |
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| The Rabbit-AKA Bart Simpson |
Bristlecone Pine
Lightening Strike
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| Some trees are over 1800 years old. |
As we traveled north, we also stopped at Agua Canyon, Natural Bridge and Fairview Point. Here are some of the other rock formations we saw.
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| Olympic Torch |
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| Angel Wings |
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| Trees Growing on Limestone |
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| Bird's Nest? Not sure what this hole is for? |
Capitol Reef National Park
Arches National Park
Canyonlands National Park
June 19th - June 22nd, 2019
We left Bryce Canyon National Park on Wednesday. Randy had suggested that the ride to Capitol Reef via Route 12 was quite scenic, so we followed that route and he was right. The scenery was extraordinary.
Route 12
When we arrived at Capitol Reef we went to the Visitor Center, watched the documentary, and stamped our passport. Due to limited time, we decided to drive the scenic route. We left the RV in the parking lot near the Gifford House and took the Fit on the drive.
According to the park's brochure, "Capitol Reef became a national monument in 1937 and a national park in 1971. The park preserves unique geologic features, important archeological evidence, diverse plant and animal communities, and the homesteads and stories of early Mormon pioneer settlers."
The Scenic Drive
After our quick tour of Capitol Reef, we took Route 24, also a suggestion made by Randy, and enjoyed another scenic ride on our way to Arches National Park in Moab, UT.
Route 24
We arrived in Moab in the late afternoon. We found the BLM that Ralph and Janet had suggested. It was about 15 miles from the entrance to the park and proved to be a great spot with excellent views. The area was also very popular with off-road vehicles and ATVs and we saw lots of them.
The Arches National Park brochure describes Arches as "a great family park where you can walk to many of its features. Water and ice, extreme temperatures, and underground salt movement are responsible for the sculptured rock scenery of the Park. On clear, blue-sky days it is difficult to imagine such violent forces--or the 100 million years of erosion--that created this land boasting one of the world's greatest densities of natural arches. Over 2000 cataloged sandstone arches range in size from a three-foot opening, the minimum considered an arch, to the longest, Landscape Arch, measuring 306 feet base to base."
BLM Campsite in Moab, UT
Arches National Park
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| Sunrise |
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| Hot Air Balloon Early Morning |
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| It's very hot in Moab, UT! |
Wednesday morning we were up bright and early in order to beat the crowds. We drove into the park and drove the Park Road stopping at the various viewpoints along the way.
Petrified Dunes Viewpoint
Next we made our way to the gravity-defying Balanced Rock where we were able to walk around its base. The rock is "balancing" on a crumbling pedestal and it looks as if it is going to break off at any time.
Balanced Rock
We then continued to the Windows Section consisting of Turret Arch, North Window, and South Window.
The Windows
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| North Window |
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| Window |
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| Turret Arch |
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| Walking in the Windows |
Delicate Arch was our next stop. We opted to forgo the strenuous trail and to take our photos from the much closer Viewpoint.
Delicate Arch
From the Salt Valley Overlook we saw these views.
Our final stop was in Devil's Garden. We hiked most of this 2-mile round trip path. It was beginning to get very hot, so as soon as we were able to get a photo of the Landscape Arch, we headed back to the car. The Arch is 291 feet and is one of the world's largest natural spans. The photo doesn't really give you a feeling for its size.
Landscape Arch
Other structures in Arches
Once again we were glad we had gotten an early start. By the time we finished our hikes, it was extremely hot and the crowds were growing. We left Arches and drove into Moab. We had the oil changed in the RV and then stopped at City Market for some groceries. We returned to the BLM, had dinner and then went to bed. Around 10:30, Dave woke up in excruciating pain. We drove to Moab's hospital and spent the next seven hours in the Emergency Room. Dave had a 2 mm kidney stone. He was released around 6:00 am, with scripts and instructions to drink lots of water and to strain his output in hopes of passing the stone. Needless to say, Friday was really a lost day for both of us. Having had no sleep the night before, we were moving slowly. At 8:00 am, I had to go back into town to pick up Dave's prescriptions and when I returned, he had showered and said he was feeling better. He took it easy for the day. By Saturday, he felt much better and even though he never saw any evidence of passing the stone, we hope he did. Time will tell.
On Saturday, Dave felt well enough to drive to the Island in the Sky Entrance to Canyonlands National Park. According to its website, "Canyonlands National Park preserves a colorful landscape eroded into numerous canyons, mesas, and buttes by the Colorado River, the Green River and their tributaries. It became a national park in 1962. The park is divided into four districts: the Island in the Sky, the Needles, the Maze, and the combined river; the Green and Colorado, which carved two large canyons into the Colorado Plateau. There are no roads in the park that directly link the districts. Traveling between them requires two to six hours by car."
"Island in the Sky mesa rests on sheer sandstone cliffs over 1000 feet above the surrounding terrain. Each overlook offers a different perspective of the parks spectacular landscape. There are many pullouts along the paved scenic drive offering spectacular views."
Views from the pullouts in Canyonlands National Park
When we returned, we had a very busy afternoon. Dave dropped me at the laundromat, had the oil changed in the Fit, we both got haircuts, and we found a place to "dump" and buy propane for the RV.
Dave was still feeling okay and we were ready to leave in the morning.
Goosenecks State Park
June 23, 2019
We left Moab at 6:30 am and went to Goosenecks State Park in Mexican Hat, UT. According to its website, "The park is on the edge of a deep canyon above the sinuous river meander known as a gooseneck. This small park affords impressive views of one of the most striking examples of an entrenched river meander on the North American continent. The San Juan River twists and turns through the mender, flowing a distance of over six miles while advancing one and a half miles west on its way to Lake Powell. The desert landscape reveals its underlying structure exposing 300-million years of geologic activity."
Our campsite was right on the rim. After settling in, we took a drive past the "Mexican Hat" and into Monument Valley. The Mexican Hat is a rock formation that from certain angles resembles a "Mexican Hat or a Sombrero."
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| Campsite on the Rim Overlooking the Rim |
The Mexican Hat
"The Navajo Nation's Monument Valley is one of the most photographed points on earth. The valley boasts sandstone masterpieces that tower at heights of 400 to 1000 feet, framed by scenic clouds casting shadows that graciously roam the desert floor. The angle of the sun accents these graceful formations, providing scenery that is simply spellbinding. The fragile pinnacles of rock are surrounded by miles of mesas and buttes, shrubs and trees, and windblown sand, all comprising the magnificent colors of the valley."
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| The Corral and Horseback Riders |
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| Mittens |
Elephant Butte
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| Three Sisters |
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| The Thumb |
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| View from Artists Point |
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| Rain God Mesa |
In the afternoon, we used the Fit to drive the Moki Dugway. The ranger at the park had suggested that we drive to the top of the mesa to see some fantastic views. The road is not recommended for vehicles over 24-feet long or over 8,000 pounds. There is a 11% grade. The Moki Dugway is literally carved from the cliff face and talus slope on the edge of Cedar Mesa. It is a 3-mile stretch of unpaved switchbacks that climbs approximately 1200 feet from the valley floor.
Moki Dugway (RT. 261)
Monday, June 24, 2019
Mesa Verde National Park
After leaving Goosenecks State Park, our next destination was Mesa Verde National Park. On our way we passed by the Four Corners Monument which marks the quadripoint in the Southwestern United States where the states of Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, and Utah meet. It is the only point in the US shared by four states. The monument also marks the boundary between two semi-autonomous Native American governments, the Navajo Nation, which maintains the monument as a tourist attraction, and the Ute Mountain Ute Tribe Reservation. We did not actually visit the monument, but have a photo of the entrance to the area run by the Navajos. The actual photo of the monument was shared from the internet.
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| Entrance to Four Corners |
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| Monument Photo by Rich Torres (2010) |
Mesa Verde National Park is located near Cortez, CO. "It was designated as a National Park in 1906 to preserve the archeological heritage of the Ancestral Pueblo people. The park protects over 5000 archeological sites; 600 of which are cliff dwellings. It is the largest archaeological preserve in the United States. Mesa Verde (Spanish for "green table") is best known for structures such as Cliff Palace, believed to be the largest cliff dwelling in North America."
After stopping at the Visitor Center and purchasing a ticket for Dave to take the Cliff Palace Tour (My knees and I decided we would skip the tour.), we followed the road along the North Rim, through the Chapin Mesa to the Cliff Palace tour parking lot. According to its website, the Cliff Palace, the largest cliff dwelling in the park, has about 150 rooms. The tour involves 120 uneven stone steps and climbing five, 8-10 foot ladders on a 100-foot vertical climb. It is a strenuous tour due to the elevation and physical exertion required to visit the dwelling. As I said before, Dave took the challenge. I did not.
Mesa Verde National Park and the Cliff Palace Tour
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| Rock Climber Statue at entrance to Visitor Center |
The Tour
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| 100-foot Descent |
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| Climbing down |
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| Our Ranger All tours are guided. |
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| Learning the history |
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| Rough stone used to recreate mortar used by Puebloans |
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| Climbing out (looking back) |
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| Climbing out (looking up) |
After the tour, we left the park and found the Walmart in Cortez, CO where we settled in for the night. I did some grocery shopping while Dave went to see about buying new sneakers (tires) for Cherry (the Fit). The tires had to be ordered. They were due in the next day. On Tuesday, we took a ride to locate the "dump station" at the town's transfer station and stopped at AutoZone to buy some new wheel covers for Cherry. By 1:00 pm, she was all set to go! We hooked up, headed to the dump station and then continued on toward Telluride.
June 25th - 28th, 2019
Telluride, CO
As we traveled along between Cortez and Telluride on Route 145, we came upon some construction. As we got closer, we saw a giant boulder in the road. It seems there had been a huge rock slide at the beginning of the Memorial Day weekend. Two giant boulders tumbled about 2000 feet from a mountain ledge onto the highway. Transportation officials destroyed the smaller 2.3-million-pound rock with explosives. But, recently, the Colorado Department of Transportation decided to rebuild Highway 145 to wind around the giant boulder which weighs about 8.5 million pounds. It has been named "Memorial Rock".
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| Memorial Rock Denver Post |
We found a great campsite in the Matterhorn Campground in the Uncompahgre National Forest. We spent the next few days exploring the mountain town of Telluride and its Mountain Village neighbor. According to its website, "Telluride sits in a box canyon, tucked into the San Juan Mountains. It is surrounded by steep frosted mountains and cliffs, with Bridal Veil Falls situated at the canyon's head. A free gondola connects the town with its companion town, Mountain Village, Colorado. Telluride is especially known for its ski resort and slopes during the winter, as well as an extensive festival schedule during the summer."
Ruth and Terry, our camp hosts at the Matterhorn, were excellent. They told us about the "free" gondola ride from Mountain Village to Telluride. It is considered to be the first and only public transportation system of its kind in the US. It is an 8-mile, 13-minute ride that carries you over the San Sophia Ridge to Telluride offering incredible 365-degree views of the San Juan Mountains.
On Wednesday, we drove to Mountain Village, found a parking spot, and hopped on the gondola. As promised, the scenery was awesome and the ride was so much fun. We walked around town, had a coffee at an outside cafe as we "people watched", explored the town some more, and then had fantastic lunch at the Telluride Bistro.
The Gondola Ride
Downtown Telluride
On Thursday, we rode the gondola back to Telluride to use the library where we spent the morning researching various Medicare programs....yes, we have reached that milestone!
On Friday, we drove into town to get gas and to put Cherry through the carwash. She was filthy! We also took advantage of having cell service to catchup with texts, emails, and to pay some bills.
June 29th -July 7th, 2019
Montrose, CO
Elk Creek, Curecanti National Recreation Area
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park
On Saturday, the 29th we left Telluride and drove to Montrose, CO for the night which we spent, again, at a Walmart. We had reservations for a week at Elk Creek in the Curecanti National Recreation Area beginning the 30th. We had wanted to be settled in a campground for the July 4th holiday so although it was unusual for us, we reserved a site. Before leaving on Sunday morning, I went to a laundromat and much to my surprise, across the street was a Dunkin Donut shop....it had been quite a while since we had enjoyed a DD coffee.
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| Leaving Telluride |
The Curecanti National Recreation Area and the campground at Elk Creek had it all....a beautiful lake, a marina, great views of the mountains, a restaurant (Pappy's), and a Visitor Center. We settled in and relaxed for the evening.
On Monday, we stopped at the Visitor Center to make a reservation for the ranger-led boat tour on the Morrow Point Reservoir in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. We were lucky enough to get spots on the 4th of July tour at 10:00 am. After talking with the ranger, we decided we would take a ride to the North Rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. We learned there are two entrances to the Park, the south rim and the north rim, but there is no bridge to connect the two sides, so one must drive around to visit each side of the Park. It was founded as a National Monument in 1933, and became a National Park in 1999. According to its website, "The Black Canyon of the Gunnison is big enough to be overwhelming, yet intimate enough to feel the pulse of time. This Canyon exposes you to some of the steepest cliffs, rock, and craggiest spires in North america. Over millions of years of time, the Gunnison River, along with the forces of weathering, has sculpted the vertical wilderness of rock, water, and sky."
It was about a 60-mile drive from our campsite to the North Rim, but the ride afforded us magnificent views. The Rim was reached via a gravel road. There were six overlooks where you could park and then take short hikes to the rim of the canyon. The walls on the North Rim are almost vertical, often without guardrails, so the sights that we saw were amazing.
Views of the Blue Mesa Reservoir from our campsite
Other views from our campsite
At Last from Blue Mesa Reservoir
Black-billed Magpie
Drive to North Rim-Rt. 92
Hermit's Rest
North Rim Drive
South Rim Visitor Center/Viewed from the North Rim
Flowers along the trails to the overlooks
Our ride back to the campsite was accompanied by lots of rain. For dinner, I took the lazy way out, and we ate at Pappy's, the restaurant at the Elk Creek Marina.
Tuesday morning we went to the marina to inquire about renting a pontoon boat. They had one rather "sad" looking boat available, but we were told it ran well. The usual rental fee for 4 hours was $210 plus fuel. They told us we could have the boat for $25/hr plus our fuel. We really just wanted to get out on the water. We took the deal and for $85, we had a blast.
Pontoon Boat Ride/Blue Mesa Reservoir
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| Elk Creek Marina |
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| Captain Dave |
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| On the Water Again |
On Wednesday, we took a ride to the South Rim Entrance to Black Canyon at Gunnison Park. We wanted to see the Park's film and to get our passport stamped. It was a short visit, but our mission was accomplished.
South Rim Drive
On the fourth of July, we were up bright and early to get to Pine Crest Trail to begin our hike to the boat dock for our tour. We weren't sure how long it would take me to hike down into the canyon. From the Pine Creek parking lot, we had to walk down 232 steps, then walk 3/4 of a mile to the boat dock along the historic Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad grade that had once made its way along the Gunnison River. The guide suggested allowing one hour for the hike. We were instructed to arrive 30 minutes before departure, so we arrived at the parking lot at 7:30. Needless to say, Dave and I were at the boat dock an hour before the required time. It had actually been a much shorter hike than I had anticipated. The 1.5 hour tour took us on a scenic journey along the upper reaches of Morrow Point Reservoir, the beginning of the Black Canyon National Park. Our tour guide related fascinating details about the history, geology, wildlife, early inhabitants, the narrow-gauge railroad, and the ecology of the area. Highlights of the tour included Chipeta Falls and the historic Curecanti Needle.
Going down? 232 Steps!
Path to boat dock/old railway grade
Our Tour Boat
Chipeta Falls
Rock Pile/50 ft. in 50 yrs.
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| Hoodoos! |
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| Curecanti Needle |
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| RR Logo |
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| Telegraph Pole from the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad |
Going Up? 232 Steps after an Awesome Tour!
The trek back up the canyon was a little slower for me, but it, too, proved to be easier than I had envisioned. To celebrate, the hike, the tour, and 4th of July, we stopped at Pappy's for lunch and margaritas on the deck. It was so nice to be sitting and looking out over the water.
For the rest of our stay at Elk Creek, we took a ride to Crested Butte, an alpine-themed village, known for its wildflowers. As a matter of fact, there was a Wildflower Festival while we were there. However, we could find no sign of a festival or of wildflowers. We were a bit disappointed and no photos were taken. On the 6th we put things in order to get ready for our departure the next day. In Gunnison, I did laundry while Dave found a dump site, put the RV through a car wash, and got fuel.
July 7th - 17th, 2019
Great Sand Dunes National Park
Boulder County Fairgrounds and Campground
After leaving the Curecanti National Recreation Area we drove to our next national park, Great Sand Dunes National Park. Our route there brought us over the North Pass (also known as the North Cochetopa Pass), a mountain pass over the Continental Divide at an elevation of 10,135 feet.
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| Scenery Along the North Pass |
According to the Colorado website, "If you travel to the Great Sand Dunes, you will sink into the highest mountains of sand in North America. Nestled in a spot where the Sangre de Cristo Mountains buckle inward, the dunes within the borders of this national park have been building for eons--the result of the San Luis Valley's unique wind patterns. A sandbox of epic proportions, the entire dune field encompasses 30-square miles and the tallest dune towers 750 feet high." It is possible to sand board down the dunes or use a sand sled to descend them. That is, of course, after you climb up them. Not an easy task. The park is at an elevation of 8200 feet and is considered to be a dark sky park. The Medano Creek, whose water comes and goes, is the perfect spot for splashing, sand castle building, and relaxing in sand chairs.
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| Driving to the Visitor Center |
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| The Big Dune |
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| Climbing the Dune |
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| Playing in Medano Creek |
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| Toes in the Sand |
The Great Sand Dunes was a unique place. In our opinion, it was not on the same scale as some of the other National Parks we have visited, but it was interesting and a great place to spend some time in the sun, sand and water.
After leaving the Great Sand Dunes, we finally reached our campground for the next week and a half...the Boulder County Fairgrounds and Campground in Longmont, CO. We have been visiting Nathan here and touring many places of interest near here such as Boulder, Red Rocks, and several scenic byways. I'll write about these adventures in our next post!
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